Surviving the Hà Giang Loop: What Every Traveler Should Know

The Hà Giang Loop will be a legend in any travel story. I first heard about the loop at a nail salon in Bangkok. I was next to a fellow traveler on the tail end of her journey through Asia, she had some amazing stories to tell. She introduced me to the Hà Giang Loop. It was thrilling, fun, beautiful. Three days riding on a motorcycle through the scenic north of Vietnam. Months later, it was my turn to try it out for myself. 

I booked my easy-rider tour through the infamous Cheers Hostel based on recommendations from a friend, and I found them to be an easy way to experience this adventure. Another popular option was Jasmine Tours, however, they are a bit pricier, and their groups looked to be larger. My $200 payment (USD) was by far the most expensive thing I did while in Vietnam, but the convenience of having accommodation, transportation, food, and the tour (plus some built-in travel buddies) felt well worth the money. Experincecs > money, always. 

I checked into the Cheers Hostel location in Hanoi where they would then transfer us to the hostel located in Hà Giang. However, I was spoiled in Thailand, where I would take overnight buses, and while they did not have beds, they did have toilets. The sleeper buses in Vietnam do not, and though a couple of stops are made, they are inconsistent. Also, like basically everywhere in Vietnam, bring your own paper for the bathroom, because there won’t be any provided. Thank me later. From Ha Giang, we met our easy riders and would be on the motorcycle for the next three days for the epic tour. 

Respect the locals.

I try my hardest to be a conscious traveler. The Hà Giang region is not touristic in the way a place like Sa Pa is. As always, when booking any tour I try to choose one that helps to put money back into the locals’ pockets, though sometimes that information can be hard to find. That is why when tipping is recommended, tipping is important. 

My easy rider had been doing the Hà Giang loop tour for five years. He had a family to support, his daughter was the lock screen on his phone. Yes, the scenery is beautiful, he must have done the loop hundreds of times, navigating the rough roads and being away from family. If you live next to a waterfall, you block out the sound of water soon after. From what else I gathered, these men were working 6-7 days a week. One trip takes 3 days. My driver had a family he was supporting. I say all this to say, that be sure to budget in a good tip for your easy rider. The recommended tip is 5-10 US dollars per day. I was on a major budget while in Vietnam, I was down to my last $1000, I left my driver the equivalent of $35 USD, and he was very grateful. Just remember your driver kept you alive and happy during your adventure.

Extra tips: 

I know there are some nervous travel planners out there, so I tried to make notes of things to help ease your mind:

  • You will likely have to leave most of your belongings at the hostel you booked your tour through (recommended) before beginning your journey. Mine was left in Hanoi, and I had to buy a small backpack because I only had my 65-liter backpack.  You can only take a smallish bag with you, as it must be strapped in on the back of the motorcycle along with your easy rider’s bag.
  • I would suggest wearing closed-toed shoes during the trip, you only need one pair of shoes though I did also take my Tevas with me for the homestays. 
  • Cheers Hostel has you wear protective gear and a helmet that they provide. On my trip, one rider and his driver did slide off their bike going up a small but steep incline as another motorbike came barreling down they had to get out of the way but they were both perfectly fine and the rider was laughing as he told the story a few minutes later, not a scratch on either of them.
  • Bring cash. I was able to find an ATM within walking distance of our homestay in Dong Van town. This will probably be your last chance to get cash, but I would suggest already having it on you. 
  • There are plenty of breaks along the way. You will be able to use the bathroom, buy snacks and coffee, and take plenty of pictures. 
  • The homestays are comfy and have showers and western toilets. 
  • I am a vegetarian and there was plenty for us to eat, but be sure to list your dietary restrictions when booking the trip. 
  • Don’t worry about going alone, it’s hard to talk to people while on your bike anyway!

What to pack 

Things you will need:

  • A small-medium bag for that can be strapped onto the motorcycle.
  • Cash for a tip, snacks, and souviners at the Lung Tam Linen Weaving Village.
  • Three days of clothes, and one set of sleeping clothes.
  • Toiltitries (don’t forget sunscreen).
  • Close-toed shoes.
  • Swimsuit for the Thâm Luông Waterfall.
  • Cash. An ATM will only be available in Hà Giang proper.

Recommended to bring:

  • Camera (I had a disposable film camera).
  • Stomach/Nausea medicine.
  • Sandals.
  • A jacket and/or rain poncho.
  • A sense of adventure. 

Overall, don’t be afraid to go on the Hà Giang Loop. Don’t disrespect the land or the local residents while there, and don’t forget to take plenty of videos of the zooming landscapes while you experience this unique adventure.

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